Designed for the tourist seeking a fresh, authentic, Roman experience, this intimate, stimulating guide explores Rome's splendid modern architecture, its bustling close-in neighborhoods, and its rivers, magnificent fountains, and aqueducts. Itineraries take the reader to Fascist and occupied Rome of World War II, the nearby Alban Hills, and the Eternal City's lesser-known green spaces. Innovative chapters feature cultural and artistic Rome, including art galleries, jazz clubs, film locations, and rooftop bars--even places that offer a sumptuous (and free) vernissage of wine and hors d'oeuvres. With Bill and Dianne as guides-their voices part of the experience-the curious traveler will discover a housing project built under Mussolini; ascend a little-known holy Roman road on the city's outskirts; spend an evening in the out-of-the-way, artsy neighborhood of Pigneto; enjoy a trattoria where only Italians eat; and, among the book's many informative, creative sidebars, find in one the troubling story of Rome's Jewish community, and in another locate sites in Angels & Demons. 16 maps, 70 photos, an index, and detailed directions and instructions (including websites) make this new Rome easily accessible. For the frugally-minded, at times adventurous (at times armchair) traveler. Foreword by Rome Mayor Walter Veltroni.