Reichl's riotous account of the many disguises she employs to dine undetected when she takes on the coveted and prestigious job of }New York Times{ restaurant critic, lifts the lid on this glamorous world and has the same appeal as Anthony Bourdain's }Kitchen Confidential{ Reichl knows that to be a good critic she has to be anonymous - but her picture is posted in every four-star, low-star kitchen in town and so she embarks on an extraordinary - and hilarious - undercover game of disguise - keeping even her husband and son in the dark.